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Jacket Required Three – part one

July 16, 2012

The 13th – 14th July 2012 saw the third instalment of London based Menswear trade show Jacket Required. Although still situated in Victoria House, the show has once again increased in size, with some new brands present, some of which I knew and others I didn’t. I went along with my point and shoot on the opening day and this is what I saw.

The first thing that was apparent when entering the vast space was the wholesale shift that Menswear seems to be finally making going into the next season – gone is much of the workwear and heritage inspired garments that have been so prominent over the past few seasons and in comes a riot of bright and bold prints, lots of colour, and just more fun in general.

It would be fair to say that print was everywhere and on pretty much everything, with most labels doing some kind of take on it. Whether it be micro floral linings, simple white patterns printed on chambray, or larger scale prints on jackets, there was an abundance of it all around. Come Spring/Summer 2013 you’re going to be wearing some kind of print, guaranteed.

First port of call on the day was Japanese denim label Edwin, who in addition to their usual array of excellent denim, also had crisp T-shirts in plains and washed out stripes, plus red chambray shirts and a lovely wool deck jacket. Next was Pointer who’ve consolidated the brand back along more casual lines for next season. They had loads of nice styles but the stand out shoes for me were the ones shown with suede and perforated upper, floral trim and white/gum sole attached via a very chunky leather welt.

Garbstore were ever present and as usual doing things their way. The fully technical, bonded seam jackets that are being introduced for Autumn/Winter are present in more Summer orientated versions, there were some great prints – with a particularly lovely floral plus a simpler white dragonfly that also stood out. Shirts featured elbow patches that ran into the cuffs and accessories like their collaborative range of camera bags were also present.

Sweden’s Our Legacy had a small selection of their more tailored pieces on display, with a couple of double-breasted suits and some clean simple shirts. It was great to see Japanese label Edifice at the show for the second time – not only because I’m a fan of the brand, but also because they’re now back in the UK having picked up a handful of stockists at the last show, about time too I say (those in London can find it at Present and Number Six).

Keeping it Japanese for a moment, next up was White Raven, a label that are starting to make a name for themselves over here with some cleverly made and well detailed pieces. They were displaying large checks and an excellent shirt collared Harrington jacket with woven front panels. Another brand that it’s good to have back on these shores are Silas who along with their grown up skate wear and presented collaborative pieces with London’s Slam City Skates and American workwear stalwarts Dickies.

Lavenham had a mix of styles on their stand, with the well known quilted pieces in a variety of colours and fabrics sat alongside a lightweight camouflage jacket and their latest collaboration with H by Harris, which was hot off the factory floor. This consisted of three jackets and three bag styles, most utilising a heavy-duty green mesh and olive cotton drill to great effect – the parka with mesh back is an absolute winner.

Veras continue to produce a range of great, simple casual shoes. The trademark Espadrille sole is ever present, the Ontinyent gets a new low-cut version and a new red colourway in both styles, with the mesh Santander also gets a fresh, light grey/blue colourway and finally, there’s yet another new model in the guise of a low-cut suede Derby style shoe with leather welt and white rubber sole.

Sunpocket continue their resurgence with not only myriad colour variations of their ‘II’ style available and next season sees them start to produce their first new styles in 30 years. All models are folding and combined with their lightweight nature and decent pricing makes them well worth a look. Worn By were showing more of their music focused printed T-shirts, with everything from Roxy Music to Van Halen getting a look in, plus a few all over printed pieces.

Percival are always a label who’s collections I look forward too. Their playful nature has seen them producing clothing that other brands are now starting to catch up with, and this collection was once again full of great colour and interesting techniques – the stand out of which was the corking Japanese jacquard polka dot jackets in natural or navy with micro floral linings.

Croots are a new brand to me but one that’s been around for decades. Well known for their shooting and fishing bags and accessories, the label are about to launch a more city focussed range in the UK. Already well received in Japan, their beautiful luggage is made in Yorkshire from either Northampton or Tuscan vegetable-tanned leather. It’s stunning, look out for a full feature soon.

Finishing off the first part of this roundup are Scotland’s DS Dundee. The work they’ve been putting into their clothing has paid dividends for next season with a collection of beautiful outerwear, fine suiting (in a range of premium fabrics), a smattering of knitwear and some nice shirts. Highlights included a cotton/linen bonded Mac, bright blue Scottish waxed cotton jacket and a lightweight yellow jacket made from an Italian technical fabric. They’re another label I’ll be featuring more of soon.

So that’s the first installment. Part two of my round-up will follow in the next few days (when I’ve finished writing it up) and depending on how I get on editing images there might even be a third.

4 Comments leave one →
  1. July 16, 2012 11:11 am

    Cheers Rob, cracking first instalment there. Good to see the brands have finally been able to break their ‘Heritage/Workwear’ dependency at last. The wooden spoon goes to Sunpocket – printed band tee shirts? I’m assuming there was a The Ramones one in there too?

  2. July 16, 2012 8:59 pm

    always look forward to these round ups. agree which the percival comment, started seeing very familiar things coming through the last couple of seasons. really enjoying seeing more patterns and prints and the red denims from edwin

  3. Andy Weston permalink
    July 18, 2012 9:22 am

    Excellent coverage, as usual. Looking forward to seeing the second part.

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