Tender Autumn/Winter 2013 collection
Autumn/Winter 2013 sees Tender reach their seventh collection and with it comes a concentration on historical construction and materials, as they begin to pull away from the workwear feeling of past seasons into something a little softer and less uniform.
As always, everything is made in England with some new fabrics woven on these shores, especially for garments in this range – jackets are cut from natural grey Shetland wool or a blue/black mixed tweed, and there’s a specially-developed new reverse twist 18oz cotton twill, which is very heavy but has the handle and drape of a much lighter cloth.
A subtle military reference runs through the collection with narrow-wrap double breasted jackets worn with natural white and woad-dyed turkey feather cockades (made by hand in England for military bonnets’ decoration) and unstained wattle-tanned leather sidings boots which are cut on a ‘George’ pattern worn by officers. Shirts are cut from a specially-woven lambswool and cotton mix, and from cotton woven in England for use on screen printers’ tables, with two lines of blue stripes running through to help align artwork.
Another trademark of the label is their ever-changing seasonal dye colour. Autumn/Winter’s natural dye is cochineal, a bright pink made from crushed-up insect shells and used for the red coats worn by the British army around the turn of the 19th Century. Another new colour is a yellowy brown produced from iron rust.
The last new thing for the label transcends seasons – in fact, with Tender’s intent that their products remain relevant for much longer than just a season, William and his wife, Deborah are launching the Tender Stores to stock pieces from past seasons, samples which never made it into other shops, and remade garments from earlier collections.
The site goes live in the next few days, and will sit beside Tender’s mainline stockists, where the new collection will arrive over the next few weeks, and the Trestle Shop, which stocks special projects and products. For more information go to the website here: Tender.