London Collections: Men – Oliver Spencer Autumn/Winter 2013
Yesterday proved itself another busy day dashing around the capital for London Collections: Men, and my last port of call was the one I’m always most interested in – Oliver Spencer’s show. And true to form, this was yet another season that didn’t disappoint.
Once again housed in the old sorting office, this season sees the collection inspired by influential 20th century German art theorist, Joseph Beuys, and is motivated by his association with the 1960’s Fluxus movement. The fabrics used to construct much of the suiting and outerwear nodded towards Beuys’ significant ‘Felt Suit’ and reference his use of wool and felt.
Suits and jackets featured bold stripes in varied tones to great effect, and the fabrics used really stood out, as did the leather/shearling jackets and heavy woolen trousers. There seemed to be a greater emphasis on soft tailoring than the previous season, and outerwear was fantastic across the board.
Footwear include capped‐toe Oxford Boots and shoes, a selection of suede brogues and a few more casual styles, many without socks. At first the collection felt restrained but viewing the items closer showed multi-coloured weaves, contrasting fabrics on facings (and on turn-ups) and the kind of attention to detailing that Spencer is known for.
The whole thing was still colourful (if more somber), with French blue (the third look that was entirely tones of blue was especially good), orange and mustard yellow providing a bright contrast to an underlying Autumnal palette of navy blue, greys, forest green and Burgundy.
Much of the collection is made in the UK, with many garments in London – making this range a truly homegrown affair. Another excellent show and one I enjoyed thoroughly. For more information on the label and to find your nearest stockist, go to the website here: Oliver Spencer.